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Fiordland in New Zealand By Freddy Santamaria
The immense Fiordland National Park takes in the whole southwest corner of New Zealand, and contains Lakes Te Anau and Manapori and the breathtaking Milford Sound.The Southern Scenic Route, stretching from Dunedin to magnificent Te Anau, unlocks many of the secrets of Southland as it follows the Route N° 1 to Balclutha. Then the "Scenic Route" continues along the wild southern coast from the scenic wonders of the "Catlins Forest Park" and "Curio Bay’s" – 160 million-year-old fossilized forest – to Invercargill (then Route 99) to historic Riverton, which has great local crafts and safe swimming beaches.Visit the coastal settlements of Colac Bay and Orepuki. Near Tuatapere, visit the "Mighty Percy Burn Viaduct" and follow Route 99 with a visit to Lake Hauroko and Lake Monowai. Continue to Manapouri and Route 95 to Te Anau and the end of the road (Road 94) in Milford Sound.After this quick flight over the "Southern Scenic Route", let's stop at some of the important places of interest.Invercargill (See Gourmet Corner N° 1 Archives) The once swampy site that initially attracted European settlers eager to set up a flax-milling industry, was surveyed for the first time in 1856. Part of that survey consisted of laying out the main streets at 40 meters in width - sorry, New Zealand uses the metric system - a width considered generous even by today's standards and one which, along with the streetscapes of richly embellished buildings, gives Invercargill its distinctive character. www.invercargill.org.nz As a reminder, the best "business hotel" in the middle of town is: The Kelvin Hotel, located in the heart of the city:** 18 Kelvin Street, Invercargill ** Tel: (+64) 3 218 28 29 ** Fax: (+64) 3 218 2287 ** E-mail: kelvin@ilt.co.nz The best restaurant: ** Queens Drive / Bainfield Roundabout ** (North of Invercargill) ** Hosts: Glenise and Graham Hawkes ** Tel: (+64) 3 215 8156 ** E-mail: hawksy@xtra.co.nz - The best way to go is by Taxi * The new 2005 menu offers always: "Just the way you like it" STARTERS # Flannagan’s Favorite Seafood Chowder # Creamy Foveaux Strait Oyster Soup # Flannagan’s Favorites Oysters presented in the following styles: Kilpatrick, Natural, Mornay, Battered, Crumbed Scallops are also available in the all the above cooking styles # Local Green Lipped Mussels # Lightly Curried Monk Fish Fillet Starters Priced from: 6.90 to 18.90 NZ$ MAIN COURSE SELECTION # The Fresh Selection of the Day Catch # Flannagan’s Seafood Sensation # Local Crayfish Tail # Local Salmon Cooked Barbecue Style # Double Lamb Cutlet & Lamb Shank cooked Osso Bucco Style Main Courses Priced from: 21.90 to 60.00 NZ$ SIDE DISHES (4.90 NZ$) # Honey Roasted Vegetables
# Toffee & Banana (Banoffi) Steamed Pudding # Amarula Chocolate Almond and Apricot Nougat Glaze Flannagan’s is located on an old house built in 1912. The restaurant has several dining rooms all interconnected with a central hallway. All the rooms have old fireplaces and the layout of tables is well arranged. Flannagan’s seafood restaurant and its chef and owner, Graham Hawkes, has been awarded as one of the top restaurants in New Zealand.******************************************* Manapouri/Doubtful Sound www.atoz-nz.com/manapouriwww.atoz-nz.com/doubtfulsound Situated on the shores of Lake Manoupouri - only 20 minutes drive from Te Anau - this is a beautiful lake with many bush-clad islands scattered throughout, framed by the spectacular "Cathedral Mountains". It is the gateway to the scenic wonders of Doubtful Sound, an unspoiled and remote wilderness of many moods; one minute clear, blue and sun- drenched, the next mysterious and mist shrouded.When you discover Doubtful Sound you will be struck by the quality of its silence – a silence broken only by birdsong, or maybe the rushing of a distant waterfall. Your day's adventure begins as you cruise the crystal clear waters of Lake Manapouri. After disembarking at West Arm, you travel underground by coach to see the "Manapouri Underground Power Station" machine hall. (* Access to the site may not always be possible.)Then it’s over "Wilmot Pass", stopping along the way to experience some of Fiordland’s dense rain forest and to see Doubtful Sound glistening far bellow. On reaching "Deep Cove", board a catamaran for a 3-hour cruise, which takes in the most stunning scenery of Doubtful Sound. The visit is only possible with the: "Doubtful Sound Wilderness Cruises" – From May to September depart from Manapouri at 9:45 AM daily – Duration of the journey is approximately 8 hours.info@realjourneys.co.nz or www.realjourneys.co.nz Doubtful Sound is a place of towering peaks and bush-clad islands, of twisting, hidden arms and sheltered coves .
© Real Journeys ******************************* Te Anauwww.atoz-nz.com/teanau
Te Anau is internationally renowned as the "Sightseeing Walking Capital of the World" as it is located close to the main southern walking tracks. These tracks offer a sense of freedom, an escape seldom found in any other areas of the world.  Walking allows access to towering snow-capped peaks, tussock clad alpine plateau, rain forest and the dramatic beauty of this southern paradise. All walking tracks are accessible for independent walkers, guided options are available on the Milford, Hollyford, Routeburn and Greenstone Tracks, Kepler, being a circular track, starts and finishes in Te Anau and is the newest track in Fiordland. The unique Te Anau Glowworm Caves are another main feature of Te Anau and accessible by a thirty minute boat trip to the other side of the Lake to view the Glow-worms. These caves are geologically active and the only ones like this in the Southern Hemisphere. Te Anau has a population of 3,000 inhabitants in winter with a peak of around 15,000 in summer and, of course, a big choice of hotels, motels & restaurants. Unfortunately not all them are up to international standards.The Best Hotel: Lakefront Drive PO Box 46 Te Anau 9681 (NZ) Tel: (+64) 3 249 9700 Fax: (+64) 3 249 7947 E-mail: reservations@teanauhotel.co.nz www.teanauhotel.co.nz Situated on Lakefront Drive facing Te Anau Lake, the South Island’s largest lake. Te Anau Hotel has expansive, well-maintained gardens & grounds which surround the hotel and complement the attractive mountain views. Very centrally located, it is a short walk distance to all retail outlets, restaurants and activity operators. Prices:– from: 112.00 NZ$ (Min.) for a garden view room – to: 147.00 NZ$ lake view room – and 214.00 NZ$ for a suite lake view The Best Motel: 56 Lakefront Drive Tel: (+64) 3 249 9186 Fax: (+64) 3 249 9187 Email: radfordsmotel@xtra.co.nz www.radfordslakeviewmotel.co.nz Hosts: Irene & Peter Scott w Architect designed and located right on the edge of Lake Te Anau to give magnificent views of the lake and mountains from all units.The complex is only 3 minutes walk to the town center including shops, restaurants and cafes. Rated 4 star + by Qualmark, the complex consists of 4 studios, 6 x 1-bedroom and 4 x 2-bedroom units. All units have kitchen facilities, iron & ironing board, hairdryer and are non-smoking. (Irene the host, very kindly, allows smokers for a small charge, around 20.00NZ$, for extra cleaning & deodorize).Sky TV is included, with TV sets in each bedroom as well as the lounge. Breakfast is available. There are dual spa baths in 5 units . There are 2 guest laundries, a drying room, plus secure luggage storage and car parking for track walkers or guests on overnight cruises.Tariff: 130-210.00 NZ$ (2-4 persons),
The Best Restaurant: 12 Mokonui Street Tel: (+64) 3 249 7431 Fax: (+64) 3 249 8496 E-mail: redcliff_cafe@xtra.co.nz Host: ("A real character") Megan Harvey-Houghton (Owner, Manager, Cook & Operator) The Redcliff building was built in 1978 & reflects the cottage style of the early European settlers with authentic recycled materials being used where possible. The name "Redcliff" comes from an early sheep station in the area "Redcliff Station" – original home of the wagon out front & many of the photos on the walls depicting station life. Converted from a craft shop to a Restaurant & Bar in 1993 it quickly become a favorite meeting place for locals, a unique stage for live entertainment & has build a reputation for great food, wine & friendly service. (Service by Nadine)Te Anau still has a strong farming industry & the Redcliff tries to showcase the "region’s products" on the "Menu": Beef, Lamb & Wine from Central Otago and "Wild Venison" from the nearby town of Alexandra.STARTERS (Priced from 5 to 22.50 NZ$) My choice goes for: # Tapas for two – a tempting sample of "five" menu starters – They are not "Spanish Tapas", but we are at the end of the world! # Southern Seafood – Fiordland Crayfish in the company of scallops.
MAIN DISHES (Priced from 18 to 32.50 NZ$) My choice goes for: # Fiordland Wild Venison – A mouth-watering cut of venison served medium rare on crispy baked pumpkin gnocchi, a flax bundle of charred glazed vegetables. # Manuka Smoked Salmon – A slab of house smoked salmon stacked on a warmed salad of kumara, crispy bacon & watercress, topped with "crème fraiche". # Seafood Linguini – A selection of seafood, pan-seared with fresh basil, sweet chili & extra virgin lemon olive oil, tossed through fresh egg linguini. # Soup Plus – Megan’s (the chef) tasty soup of the day served with charred vegetables, salad garnish, smoked meats, cheese & bread. – More than just Soup! DESSERTS (Priced from 9.50 to 12 NZ$) My choice goes for: # Vanilla Espresso, Croissant Bread & Butter Pudding – With Chocolate ganache# Montieths Golden Lager (Beer) Ice Cream – With crumbled Anzac muesli As you can see, the menu reflects Megan’s character, the owner & chef who started her "chef career" in London restaurants, and on the "Antarctic Cruises" from Ushuaia in Argentina. Te Anau of course is the starting point for the visit to: Milford Sound Milford Sound is the most famous and accessible of the grand, glacier-carved fiords scattered along New Zealand’s South Western Coast. Mountain peaks with sculptural hanging valleys send waterfalls cascading over sheer granite cliffs to the sea below. The road to www.cruisingms.co.nz
Milford Road - Leaving Te Anau and heading north the visitor follows 121 km of tar-sealed road to the majestic Milford Sound.Numerous short walks and scenic views can be enjoyed along the road which takes the traveler from the green grass of lowland pastures through stands of native bush and finally into the rocky, mountainous area around the Homer Tunnel - gateway to Milford Sound.Make sure you have a full tank of fuel before you head to Milford. The last fuel stop is in Te Anau and the round trip is 242 Km. "In case of panic" (no more gas!) - you have only one possibility!? at 32 Km on the direction to Milford, before the "Homer Tunnel", and after "Cascade Creek" (Lake Gunn). You have an "Emergency – Gas Station" at the end of a side road to "Lower Hollyford" where the "Base Camp" of the works for the piercing of the Homer tunnel around the 1930’s was based. Anyway, the side trip is worth it, even if you are not "out of gas". It will be an excuse to see a manual "Fuel Pump" from the 1930’s. (Unique!) In Milford Sound, there is no "accommodation", no hotel or motel -- only a camping site. For food, there is only a "Self Service" type restaurant. Since Milford Sound is a "Dead End" road, you need to go back to Te Anau and take Road 94 to "Mossburn" and follow to the left to "Five Rivers" and Road 6, and then to Queenstown to fly to less wild paradises! (See Gourmet Corner N° 1 Archives) ... or take again the "Southern Scenic Route" back to Invercargill!
And remember -- be Wild in the Wild! Happy New Year!
Freddy Santamaria "The smooth Operator" For EDA Confidential: www.aycinena.com
All rights reserved. Due to extensive travel, the next Gourmet Corner will be published in February 2006.
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