A Big, Big Chinese Restaurant in Hong Kong & The Soy Sauce Options
Kowloon's name - meaning "nine dragons" - is derived from an incident 800-years ago when boy Emperor Ping counted 8 hills and remarked there must be 8 dragons because of ancient belief that a dragon inhabits every mountain. His prime minister told him there were 9 dragons ("Kow-loon") since another ancient belief held that emperors were dragons. A long way and big changes since my first trip to Hong Kong in 1969, a time with few tourists and many "expats." It was an English colony then, where the "In" restaurants were western type. Some of them exist today, but more as a "nostalgia" of the old times than as something for the Gourmet Corner. ********************* Today's Gourmet Corner is dedicated to the Yung Kee Restaurant, in the Central District in Hong Kong. By the way, in 1968 (one year before my first visit) the restaurant was awarded by Fortune Magazine as the only Chinese restaurant on the list of the Top Fifteen Restaurants in the World. And since then, the restaurant now claims a 3-page list of awards on the menu introduction. Yung Kee Restaurant is located at walking distance from the Terminal of the Star Ferry in Hong Kong Central. It's big, with 4 (four) floors of restaurant rooms! The best and the most "hyped" is the third (3rd) floor where all the Hong Kong celebrities meet, and Mr. Kinsen Kam, the Director and General Manager, has his "guest table." Avoid a table on the ground floor, and reserve well in advance, if you want to have dinner at a normal hour (7:00 to 8:30 PM). After 9:30 PM, tables are more easy to obtain, and especially if you want a table on the 3rd floor. The restaurant is famous for its "Roasted Goose." It is, in fact, the best in town. So let's go now to the menu.Here are some recommendations from the 14 Pages: Famous Roasted and Soya Dishes: With these dishes you can have a famous Cantonese starter: # Preserved Eggs ("100 years old") and Pickled Ginger 5.00 HK$ (per person) Shark Fin: (the 2nd most expensive dishes of the restaurant) # Braised Superior Shark's Fin in Brown Sauce 420.00 HK$ (per person) # Braised Superior Abalone (from Oma, Japan) in Oyster Sauce 1,200.00 HK$ If you are not into big expenses and want to try the Abalone, you can have the house Abalone: # Yung Kee Imperial Abalone with Wine 150.00 HK$ # Sauteed Fillet of Garoupa 200.00 HK$ Or for the adventurous: # Sauteed Frog's Legs & Bamboo Shoots 98.00 HK$
Chicken, Duck and Pigeon: After dinner, don't forget to take the "cheapest" and one of the best sightseeing bargains in the world. Take the Star Ferry (the colored fleet, now 12 units, has been plying the harbor for more than a century) between Central & Kowloon, for just around "20p" of HK$ fare in the upper-deck of the ferry. Grab a seat either at the bow or the stern for the best views of the Hong Kong harbor. It runs from: The money you save on the taxi ride, you can invest in a drink at the
"Top of the View" Bars; at the Peninsula Hotel (the most snobbish) or the
Sheraton Hotel (the most intimate) or the top of the Hankow Centre
(the new "In" place) in Kowloon. The views are breathtaking. Or try the "Sweet Dynasty" on 88 Canton Road, Kowloon, a Dim Sum restaurant, the Cantonese tidbits that can be, breakfast, lunch or simply a snack. Try the likes of "ha gau" (shrimp dumplings) or the "cha siu bau" (barbecued pork buns), or pick whatever you want from the trolleys paraded around by the team of waitresses. Dishes cost around 25 HK$ each and the atmosphere is boisterous & cheery. After lunch, have a stroll at Kowloon Park: (34.5 acres of greenery next to Nathan Road), formerly a British Army barracks, now a magnet for joggers, strollers, lovers, photographers or anyone in need of fresh air. Other points of interest include: Or, by the ferry services from Central, visit the Islands of Hong Kong Bay: Cheung Chau, Peng Chau, Lama Island, etc. And if you have time, visit Macao with its "Casinos," Portuguese restaurants, and beaches. With more than 110 hotels of international standards, the choice is difficult, but since "space" is a main factor in Hong Kong, I will recommend a place where the rooms are very spacious in comparison of to the normal standard in the other hotels. A) Airport Express Train to Kowloon or HK Central (every 10 mins.) (a 23-minute trip), but after you need to take a taxi to your hotel, 100 HK$ One Way per person ********************* The Soy Sauce: (As a final note) Soy Sauce is one of the most common ingredients in Chinese & Japanese cuisine's, but with dozens of brands on the shelves it is hard to know which one to buy. So, should you splurge on the most expensive bottle or grab whatever is on sale in your "delicatessen" or supermarket? At a blind tasting, William Mark, President of the Hong Kong Federation of Restaurant Owners, rated six regular soy sauces. Mr. Mark was skeptical of labels claiming the sauces were naturally brewed because of the costs involved in the process. Therefore, he dismissed all, but the Kowloon, Yamasa and Lee Kum Kee brands as: "soy sauce plonk." Enclosed is a mini survey of the "Top Soy Sauces" courtesy of: This is the best. It has a natural taste & smell. It has the flavor of fermented soy. This is what soy sauce is all about, how it should be. Rated as second best. It's richer & heavier in flavor. It would go more ideally with Japanese (teriyaki & other cooked dishes) - but not for sushi & sashimi - and also with Taiwanese cooking. This one with the Kowloon Soy taste like naturally brewed products, all the others taste artificial. It's close in flavor to the Japanese, but tastes more artificial, trying to imitate the more expensive soy sauces on the market. Very uncharacteristic, very different from the others, just salty, watery, no other flavors. It's artificial, inferior to the Kikkoman made in Japan, and is only capitalizing on the brand name. It has more Japanese flavor, similar to the Singaporean Kikkoman. No good, just sour & salty, just more expensive than the regular Amoy Soy Sauce.
Freddy Santamaria "The Smooth Operator" - Paris, France - October 24th 2004
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