Paris - Montparnasse Off, Off
Part Two ...


by Freddy Santamaria

Following the last Gourmet Corner about Paris Montparnasse Off, Off, - today will visit "Rue Daguerre" and the North Side.

As I mentioned in Part One, Rue Daguerre changed very little in the past thirty years. In the pedestrian zone, a typical "street market" is open every day (except Sunday evening & Monday) with all the array of fresh products, you will see in the movies about Paris markets.

On the street also, you can find a selection of restaurants for all tastes: French, Greek, Japanese, Italian, & wine bars.

Among the most interesting:

"La Forchetta" (Italian)
85, Rue Daguerre
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 22 06 14
(Closed on Mondays)

A typical small Italian Restaurant, in operation for more than 18 years, with a nice selection of Italian specialties (Lunch Menu around 12.00 Euros)
à la Carte 30 to 40 Euros/P + wine (
Daily's specials black board)

"Enzo" (Italian Bistro)
72, Rue Daguerre
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 21 66 66 > (
only for info, they never takes reservations)

A very small "Italian Bistro" like a cocktail bar; high tables & stools
Great pizzas, pastas & carpaccios –
Inexpensive +/- 20.00 Euros

Unfortunately if you are alone or by two, you need to share a table

"Peret Caves Bistrot"
6, Rue Daguerre - 75014 Paris

With a snobbish wine bar the middle of the market - Expensive
Only to see & to be seen
- but good wine cellar boutique

"Fromage & Rouge"
19, Rue Daguerre - 75014 Paris

Excellent Cheese Shop in the market, with a back dining room for "cheese tasting" & wine - Price upon selection

"Au Vin des Rues"
21, Rue Boulard (10m. corner Rue Daguerre)
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 22 19 78
(Closed on Sundays)

Since 1985 – 100% Typical French Wine Bistro, old decor, "atmosphere"
Parisian Accordion music Thursday evenings
French cuisine from "Auvergne Region"
menu changes daily
Specialty "Salers Entrecôte" (Rib of Beef) -
Top Quality!
A la Carte Only, around 30.00 Euros/P + wine (Beaujolais)

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Well! After this introduction of the street, let me present today's Gourmet Corner dedicated to "ZANGO" (the travelers tree) or "Ravenala Madagascarensis" tree, where the boughs or branches grow always following the axis East-West (sunrise-sunset) very helpful for travelers to find their way.

In this restaurant, the food & drinks from East & West, have been meeting North & South in an informal atmosphere since Nov. 1999.

So, if you don't have the time to travel, you can travel in your mind with the food and be less travel-worn. The restaurant presents, every month, a photo or paintings "exhibition" from travelers who are also artists.

For Starters:

You most try the "ZATAZÉS" word contraction of:
(
ZAkouskis - TApas - meZÉS) and you have a big selection:

# Bricks de Brebis (Sheep Cheese fritters)
# Salade de Féta à l'Aneth et Paprika
(
Féta Cheese with Dill & Paprika Salad)
# Caribbean Won Ton
# Guacamole
# Mangoes Salad
# Mini Cuisses de Poulet Tandori
(
Mini Chicken Legs (Drumsticks) Tandori)
# Poivrons Farcis à la Féta
(
Féta Cheese Stuffed Red Peppers)
# Vegetarian Moussaka
# Marinated Anchovies
# Mint Cucumber "Raïta"
# Artichoke Hearts with Crystallized Lemon
# Mexican Marinated Chicken Wings
# Spanish Cured Ham

Etc, Etc. … The menu change every 3 months

The "ZATAZÉS" Price Scheme is very simple:
Reasonable Prices to sample the large selection

  • One Zatazé > 3.00 Euros
  • One Zatazé + 1 Glass (Wine , Beer or Soda) > 5.50 Euros
  • Two Zetazés > 5.00 Euros + 1 Glass (WBS) > 8.00 Euros
  • Three Zetazés > 8.00 Euros + 1 G (WBS) > 10.50 Euros
  • Five Zetazés > 12.00 Euros + 1 G (WBS) > 14.50 Euros

Explorer's Dinner Plates

# Marco Polo
(
Sautéed Chicken Teriyaki, Garlic Sautéed Potatoes, Homes
Sheep Cheese Fritters and Salad
)
# Vasco de Gama
(
Pork Mincemeat Balls Sate Sauce, Féta Salad, Basmati Rice)
# Docteur Livingstone (Vegetarian)
(
Chinese Pasta, Plantain Bananas, Crystallized Fennel, Salad
Egg-Plant Caviar and nuts
#
Paul Emile Victor
(
Salmon with Sichuan Red Pepper Sauce, Egg-Plant Caviar
Vanilla Mash, Vegetables Achards and Salad
)

All Priced at: 12.50 Euros + 1 Glass (WBS) > 15.00 Euros

# Set Lunch Plate > 10.00 Euros + 1 G (WBS) > 12.50 Euros
(
Change Daily - See Black Board)

Main Dishes:

# Tajine de Joue de Bœuf à l' Orange > 11.50 Euros
(
Orange Sauce Tajine of Beef Cheek)
# Brochette d'Agneau "Tripoli" > 12.50 Euros
(
Yogurt Marinated Lamb Skewer with Mint Sauce)
# Cuisse de Poulet "Doy Suteph" > 11.00 Euros
(
Chicken Leg Marinated in Green Curry & Coconut Milk)
# Pastilla de Perche "Sainte Rose" > 13.00 Euros
(
Pastilla of Perch Fish Fillets with Spinach, Raisins, Soya,
and Pine-Nuts)
# Brochette de Veau aux Parfums de Macao > 12.00 Euros
(
Marinated Veal Skewer with Lemon, Ginger, Garlic & Soya)
# Magret de Canard au Chutney de Pommes > 13.00 Euros
(
Duck Magret with Apple Chutney & Teriyaki Sauce)
# Sardines en Tempura > 12.00 Euros

(Sardines Japanese Tempura )
Etc, Etc. … (Main Dishes Change Every 3 Months)

All the Main Dishes Have the Choice of Two Trimmings From a Total Choice of Seven

Desserts: (All Priced at 5.50 Euros)

# Tiramisu
# Moelleux de Chocolat, Glace Vainille
# Oriental Pastries Assortment
# Crumble Assortment
# Charlotte aux Poires
# Banane Rotie au Parfum de Lavande, Glace Vanille
# Salade de Fruits au Lait de Coco
# Cheese Plate (Two) > 4.50 Euros

Wines:

A Large Selection of Wines from Around the World:
France, Spain, Portugal, Bulgaria, Lebanon, Morocco, Chile
Argentine, South Africa, Australia & New Zealand

Prices Range from: 7 to 28.00 Euros

With a Choice of Beers and Cocktails

"ZANGO"
Hosts: Alex & Johan
Chief Barman: Luc
Service by Stephanie & Jean Luc
58, Rue Daguerre
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 20 21 59
Metro Station: Denfert Rochereau
(Dinner till 11:00 PM - Bar & Cool Snacks till 1:00 AM)
(Amex & Visa Cards Accepted)

The Restaurant have another Branch on the Right Bank
In an old Building in the "Quartier" Les Halles
With a Large Room for Parties

"ZANGO" (Rive Droite)
15, Rue du Cygne
75001 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 26 27 27
Metro Station: Etienne Marcel

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Getting Around:

On the North Side of Montparnasse Off, Off …

For sightseeing you have the "tallest building" in the middle of Paris, (beside The Eiffel Tower) "La Tour Montparnasse" With a panoramic top floor & a "Tourist Restaurant"
Located on the main thoroughfare Boulevard Montparnasse.

At the end of the "East Side" of the Boulevard you can visit on the Right Side - corner Avenue Denfert Rochereau and Avenue de l'Observatoire "The Paris Observatory" & the Gardens.
On the
Left Side (at the corner) and before you can continue theAve. de l'Observatoire to the South and you will arrive to the "Jardin du Luxembourg" - you most stop at :

"Closerie de Lillas"
171, Boulevard Montparnasse
75006 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 40 51 34 50
(Open Every Day)

Traditional old French Restaurant Since 1904 -the original goes back to 1848 as a Post Relay - nice Garden Dining Room for Summer and Winter.
With a Bar & Brasserie with Parisian & artists atmosphere.
Early last century it was a "Painters/Artists" hang-out hole.

  • Lunch Menu > 38.00 Euros/P + wine
  • A la Carte > 61 to 76.00 Euros/P + wine

Restaurant Service Closes at 11:00 PM
Brasserie Service Closes at 1.00 AM - Bar Closes at 1:30 AM

If you backtrack your way to the "Montparnasse Tower" on the Boulevard Montparnase, still some Restaurants and Brasseries can be interesting to visit:

"La Bauta"
129, Boulevard Montparnasse
75006 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 2252 35
(Closes Sat. Lunch & Sunday)

* Italian Venetian restaurant, specialties: Stuffed Squid & traditional (old style)Veal Lever
Lunch Menus: > 17 & 20.00 Eurasia/P + wine
Dinner Menu: > 30.00 Eurasia - à la Carte > 38.00 Eurasia + W

"La Rotonde"

105, Boulevard Montparnasse
75006 Paris
Tel: + 33 (0)1 43 26 48 26
(Open Every Day)

* Traditional Montparnasse Brasserie "an institution"
Since 1910
Specialty: "Salers" Beef & Fish Sole Meunière (500-600 g.) from D'Yeu Island on the Atlantic + top Quality Oysters Selection
A la Carte Only: > 33 to 55.00 Euros/P + Wine
Restaurant Service Closes at 1:00 AM

"La Coupole"
102, Boulevard Montparnasse
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 20 14 20
(Open Every Day)

* Specialty: Oysters, Beef Tartar, Indian Lamb Curry and the "House Goose Cassoulet" -
Unfortunately Many Tourists!
Better to go for a "Late Dinner" -- Service till 2:00 AM
Menus: 21 & 29.00 Euros - à la Carte > 30-38 00 Euros/P + W

"Le Dôme"
108, Boulevard Montparnasse
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 35 25 81
(Closed Sunday & Monday in August)

* The other Montparnasse "Institution" from the 20's is an old Fish Brasserie -
Great but Expensive - the Specialty is Fish
à la Carte Only > 70.00 Euros/P + Wine

"Bistrot du Dôme" (Just Next Door)
1, Rue Delambre (corner with the Boulevard)
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 35 32 00
(Open Every Day) - Service Closes at 11:00 PM

* Fish Only Bistro -
at Half Price of Le Dome
Daily Fish Arrivals Black Board Top Quality Fish Bistro
Almost Full Every Day -
Reserve in Advance
A la Carte Only > 31-43 Euros/P + Wine

If you continue the street, same side (50 m) you will arrive at "Rosebud" – a nice Evening Bar for a Night Cap.

And to complete the Off, Off Montparnasse Review, maybe;

The Two Top Fish Restaurants in Paris:

"Le Duc"
243, Boulevard Raspail
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 20 96 30
Menu: 46.00 Euros - à la Carte > 80.00 Euros/P + Wine
(Closed Sat. Lunch + Sunday & Monday)
Service Closes at 22:30 PM

* No Comments; -
If I do, I will need another page.

"La Cagouille"
10, Place Constantin-Brancusi (23, Rue de l'Ouest)
75014 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 22 09 01
Menus: 23-38 Euros - à la Carte > 31-67 Euros/P + Wine
(Open Every Day - Service Closes at 22:30)

* Same Comments as for Le Duc

*******************************

For Lodging, My Suggestions Include:

"Hotel Le Meridien Montparnasse" (For Business)
19, Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte
75014 Paris (In front Bus Terminal Air France from CDG)
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 36 44 36 - Fax: +33 (0)1 44 36 49 00
Email:
resindiv.paris@lemeridien.com
Price Range from: 179 to 229.00 Euros (with breakfast)

"Hotel Mercure Montparnasse" (For Business)
20, Rue Gaité
75014 Paris (5 Min. walk from Air France Bus Terminal)
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 35 28 28 - Fax: + 33 (0)1 43 35 78 00
Email:
h0905@accor-hotels.com
Price Range from: 180 to 189.00 Euros (without breakfast)

* Rue Gaité is a very "picturesque" street with restaurants, bars, theaters, eateries, sex shops, etc. … all in good harmony!

"Hotel du Midi" (tourist hotel *** stars)
4, Avenue René Coty
75014 Paris
(In front RER Denfert Rochereau Station from CDG Airport)
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 27 23 25 - Fax: + 33 (0)1 43 21 24 58
Price Range from: 96 to 106.00 Euros (with breakfast)
Suite: 128:00 Euros (with out breakfast)

"Hotel Transcontinental" (tourist hotel ** stars)
155, Avenue du Maine
75014 Paris (10 Min Walk from Air France Bus terminal)
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 39 20 00 - Fax: +33 (0)1 45 41 37 69
Price Range from: 71 to 80.00 Euros (with out breakfast)
Suite: 115.00 Euros (Breakfast: 8.00 Euros)

**************************************

And now, From Montparnasse Off, Off … I wish you

Joyeux Noël - Bonne Année

**************************************

 

Due to upcoming travel plans, the next "Gourmet Corner" will be posted at the end of January 2005.

 

Freddy Santamaria "The Smooth Operator"

Paris, France - December 19, 2004

Fredmarcom@aol.com