Dunedin &
The Otago Peninsula!
in New Zealand

By Freddy Santamaria


Set at the head of beautiful Otago Harbor, Dunedin is the capital of a sparsely settled region of New Zealand – Otago. Dunedin is the largest city in the region and proud of its vibrant Scottish heritage. At one time, it was the largest city in New Zealand and the country’s main commercial center during the Otago gold rush of the 1860s.

Dunedin boasts the largest concentration of Victorian and Edwardian buildings in New Zealand. The city has 24 of them listed with the Historic Places Trust, including New Zealand’s "only castle": Larnach, the elegant Dunedin Casino & the Dunedin Railway Station. The city also lays claim to the University of Otago, the oldest university in New Zealand, and the world’s steepest road – Baldwin Street. A temperate climate (mild summers and cool winters) supports fine gardens – the city is famous for its rhododendrons.

Baldwin Street - Dunedin

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Beyond the city environs are the magnificent wilderness areas of the spectacular Otago Peninsula that stretch east along the southern edge of Dunedin’s harbor. The area is home to several internationally renowned wildlife reserves.

Some of the world’s rarest birds can be viewed year round in their natural habitats here, including the only "Royal Albatross" breeding colony on a mainland anywhere in the world.

Nearby colonies of the rare yellow-eyed penguin can be found as well, with secluded beaches frequented by fur seals and nesting grounds of the white-fronted tern & blue penguin.

The best way to visit the Otago Peninsula is in your own rented car. From the city center take Portsmouth Drive to the left junction of Portobello Road and follow the coast road along the Otago Harbor. You will see Macandrew Bay, Company Bay, Raynbird Bay, Broad Bay, the Yellow Head, and Edwards Bay with the islands of Pudding, Quarantine and Goat. Eventually you will arrive in Portobello Village with the Museum and the Aquarium.

Follow Portobello Bay to Harington Point Road and the "tip" of Peninsula – Taiaroa Head with the Albatross Colony. For the best views go up to the top of the hill to the "Natures Wonders" café & restaurant (easier if you're driving a 4WD).


Otago Peninsula


A View to the Sea from the faraway Otago Peninsula -
Wilderness site near Dunedin in New Zealand

Photo © Thérèse Malifarge

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On the way back, around the middle of Portobello Bay after passing the "Portobello Bay Backpackers", turn left to Weir Road and continue to the T-junction of Dick Road. Turn right to Sheppard Road, and enjoy the magnificent views of the "Papanui Inlet" and the "Hoopers Inlet".

Follow Hoopers Inlet Road to the next T-junction with Sandymount Road. Then turn right to the next T-junction with the Highcliff Road, where you'll find the "historic lime kilns" and Blackbird Pottery. Follow the road to your left to Pukehiki to see the Larnach Castle (remember it's New Zealand’s only castle), and then back to Highcliff Road to return to Dunedin city center.

This unforgettable round trip tour of the Otago Peninsula will take you around 2 hours and 30 minutes – that's only the driving – without stops and visits to the various points of interest.

Other trips of interest would include the "Taieri Gorge Railway"one of the world’s great train trips from Dunedin to Pukerangi (58 kilometers) on the rugged mountain interior of Central Otago. All trains feature "heritage carriages" dating back to the 1920’s.

The trip takes a half-day round trip and runs every day, winter & summer, with departures from Dunedin Railway Station at 12:30 PM in winter and 2:30 PM in summer.

Other "one day" trains trips (only in summer) go to Middlemarch (77 kilometers) and Palmerston (66 kilometers) with the "Seasider" passing by the Otago Harbour rail causeway, Mihiwaka tunnel, and spectacular cliff-top coastal scenery.

For more information: www.taieri.co.nz

While in Dunedin city center, don’t forget to visit the Railway Station, the Casino, the Olveston House, the Baldwin Street and the "Octagon" – the city center itself, with two parallel rows of streets, forms the shape of an "octagon" with the Town Hall and the Tourist Office, shops, bars and restaurants.

For more information: www.CityofDunedin.com

or www.atoz-nz.com/dunedin


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The two best hotels in Dunedin are:

Dunedin City Hotel

Opening in early 2004, the new 110-room Dunedin City Hotel, with contemporary design, and harbor & city views.

Ideal for business and leisure guests situated two blocks from the Octagon Central, convenient to many key attractions and services. All rooms have tea & coffee making facilities, Sky TV, mini bar, telephone & internet dial-up access at work desk, radio, fridge, iron & ironing board, hairdryer, 24-hour reception, room service, valet laundry & dry cleaning, valet car parking, two guest laundries, internet kiosk, and Telecom wireless hotspot service. A gymnasium and conference facilities are also available to guests.

[Note: The Hotel & bar are Smoke-Free.]

Corner of Princes & Dowling Streets Dunedin (NZ)
Tel: +64 3 470 1470
Fax: + 64 3 477 1477
Email:
Dunedin.city@scenic-circle.co.nz


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Southern Cross Hotel

"The Cross", as it is affectionately known, with the Dunedin Casino located within the original hotel, is in the heart of the Central Business District, a short walk to the Octagon, Railway Station, theatres & shops. The hotel includes 110 Superior, 60 Standard rooms and 8 Suites.

All rooms have clock radio, Sky TV, Movie link, fridge, mini bar, tea & coffee facilities, iron & ironing board, hairdryer, telephone & internet dial-up access, 24-hour reception & room service, two guests laundry, with valet laundry & dry-cleaning (six days), ice making machine, business services, internet kiosk, Telecom wireless hotspot service. Tourist information & booking service, fitness center & sun bed are on the ground level. There is also underground car parking.

Extensive conference facilities are also available at the Southern Cross Hotel.

Within the Hotel & Casino, there are several Restaurants & Bars:

The Carlton Restaurant,
Ports O’Call Grill,
Ports O’Call Bar
and the Café D’Oro.

[Note: Since it is an Hotel & Casino – Smoking Rooms are Available]

The best suite is N° 671, with views over the city and harbor.

Price are around > 300.00 NZ$ (Inclusive of taxes)

[Conversion rate: 1 NZ$ varies from 60 to 75% of 1 US$]

Corner of Princes & High Streets
Dunedin (NZ)
Tel: +64 3 477 0752
Fax: + 64 3 477 5776
Email:
southern.cross@scenic-circle.co.nz


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Dunedin’s "Gourmet Corner"

Dunedin City boasts more than 37 restaurants in the "Visitors Guide", but to be honest, only 3 are worth mentioning (from my personal point of view).

So today’s Gourmet Corner will be dedicated to three of them:

TABLE SE7EN

Located on a first floor of a corner house in the center of Dunedin’s shopping district with an endless array of passing street life, the restaurant provides entertainment from the first-floor windows. It has also a nice cocktail bar & DJs on the weekends till late, but lately it has become the "In" place for lunch and dinner in the city.

The food includes inspirations from Mediterranean, Asian & even Argentina cuisines.

They have a Lunch & Dinner Menu, but at dinner, you can have if you wish some dishes from the lunch menu. Anyway, every dish is a "book saga", so read the menu carefully.

For Starters: (I recommend)

# Barbecued scallops & prawns on a citrus risotto – garlic butter sauce & topped with fried leeks. > 18.50 NZ$ *(Outstanding)

# Seafood chowder made from a mélange of fresh seafood with warm baked kelp croutons. > 14.50 NZ$

# A trio of ravioli filled with crayfish, hot smoked salmon, egg yolk with cress, radish salad, dressed in truffle oil, & - finished with a delicate champagne beurre blanc. > 19.00 NZ$

# White wine braised pear, fillet with blue cheese on salad greens, whitlof, toasted walnuts, finished with a honey dressing > 14.50 NZ$

# Butter sautéed spinach & lambs fry accompanied with creamy herb potato mash, crispy bacon & balsamic onion. > 13.00 NZ$

For the Main Course:

# Fish of the day steamed in banana leaves with jasmine rice, coconut and lemon grass cream, sautéed vegetables together with toasted sesame & sea asparagus. > 19.50 NZ$ *(Outstanding)

# Sumac smoked Denver leg of venison on a potato mash muddled with baba ghanoush, tamarillo relish jus, and completed with char-grilled Portobello mushrooms, watercress & toasted pine nuts. – Not easy to cook on your own home – > 30.50 NZ$

# Comfit of duck leg & breast spiced with star anise cardamom and chili, on orange oil tagliatelle, together in a cream reduction with palm sugar roasted shallots, oranges & broccoli > 33.50 NZ$

# Duo of roast lamb rump and rack cutlets (we are in New Zealand) smothered in chemoula with lyonnaise pumpkin and kumara sautéed beans, roast tomato ragout, with peppery rocket. > 29.50 NZ$

# Char grilled fillet of beef marinated in ginger and garlic on potato latkes, caramelized braised onions, vegetable wafers seasoned with smoked sea salt and a subtle oyster jus with a dash of mustard seed oil. > 29.00 NZ$

# Spicy meatball and mussel paella made with saffron, paprika, peppers & tomatoes with grilled lemon & croutons. > 21.00 NZ$

For Dessert:

# Jagos vanilla crème brulee with fragrant poached fruit and an almond and rose water wafer > 13.50 NZ$

# Hot apple and rhubarb tart tatin married with maple syrup, hazelnut praline and cinnamon ice cream > 13.00 NZ$

# "The Ultimate Dessert Plate"; Hot chocolate pudding accompanied with a caramel berry sauce – Custard filled profiteroles smothered in chocolate – Black forest ice cream terrine > 17.50 NZ$

# Assortment of locally made chesses with oven baked pears, plum jelly crackers > 15.00 NZ$

There is an extensive wine list:
(Including the local wines of Central Otago) with a price range from: > 29.50 to 55.00 NZ$ -- on the whites

And from : > 29.50 to 129.50 NZ$ -- on the reds

The majority of the wines are also served by the glass > 6.50 to 13.00 NZ$

For the beer drinkers, there's a big choice of:
local (tap & bottled) & international brands (bottled only).

On my last visit, we had excellent service by Nikki.

TABLE SE7EN
Restaurant Manager: Aaron McNamara
Director: Michael Wilson
Co-owner & Chef: Steve Richardson
Executive Chef: Nicola Cairns
Level 1, Corner Hanover & George Streets
DUNEDIN (NZ)
Tel: + 64 3 477 6877
Fax: + 64 3 477 67 99
Email:
tableseven@xtra.co.nz

Mon – Wed > 11 AM – 11 PM **
Thurs – Sat > 11 AM – Late
Sundays > 10 AM – 4 PM


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The second restaurant of interest in Dunedin:

HIGH TIDE RESTAURANT

The restaurant offers waterfront dining in an attractive garden setting with panoramic views of Otago Harbor and Peninsula. In operation since 1998, it is one of the classic restaurants in Dunedin with contemporary New Zealand cuisine.

For Starters:

# Seafood Chowder with mussels, smoked fish & scallops. 12.00 NZ$

# Tapas Selection (it's not Spain) but is original. > 15.00 NZ$

# Lambs Fry, crispy bacon, apple, walnut maple salad. > 13.00 NZ$

# Fresh Shellfish, mussels, clams, scallops, dry vermouth sauce and crispy onions rings. > 14.00 NZ$

# Char grilled Venison Strips, watercress pesto, tomatoes & mozzarella. > 16.00 NZ$

# Roasted Muttonbird, kumara crisps, caper berry sauce. 15.00 NZ$

For a Main Course:

# Fresh Fillets of Fish, kumara and scallop ravioli with mandarin sauce. > 25 NZ$

# New Zealand Lamb, cashew and potato mash, tamarind glaze & sour cherry butter. > 27.00 NZ$

# Prime New Zealand Beef, fennel and onion jam, potato bake and truffle oil. > 27.00 NZ$

# Pork Fillet, bacon wrapped, cooked in chipotle butter, polenta & capsicum disks cranberry chutney & morel sauce. > 26.00 NZ$

And they don’t forget the vegetarians, for > 23.00 NZ$

# Char Grilled Vegetable Empanada with tomato and chili chutney.

For Desserts and Cheese: (all at > 10.00 NZ$)

# Bread & Butter Pudding, bombed bananas and cream.

# Tuscan Trifle, marscarpone cheese, marsala, espresso biscuits.

# Golden Steamed Pudding, cardamom, honey poached pears, fromage blanc.

And of course "Home Made Ice Creams" & Local Cheeses:

# Chevre Tihi (semi soft goat's cheese) with dried fruits poached in honey mead.

# Kikorangi Triple Cream Blue with oat crackers & spiced figs.

# Evansdale Farmhouse Brie with crostini & quince paste.

There is a good Selection of New Zealand Wines at moderate prices, and also B.Y.O. bottled wine only. Corkage fees are > 3.00 NZ$ per bottle.

HIGH TIDE RESTAURANT
Hosts: Mark Kerry Lane & Kerry Lane-Read
Head Chef: Mark Lane
Maitre D’: Samantha Lane
29 Kitchener Street
DUNEDIN (NZ)
Tel: +64 3 477 9784
Fax: +64 3 477 9785
Web:
www.hightide.co.nz

Open for dinner only, Tuesday to Sunday
from 6 PM till Late.


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The third & final restaurant of interest in Dunedin:

CONSERVATORY RESTAURANT

Corstorphine House
Milburn Street
Dunedin (NZ)
Tel: +64 3 487 1000
Web:
www.corstorphine.co.nz

Fine Dining in a Historic Environment, the restaurant is housed in a conservatory and set in a large & charming garden. Wherever possible, the restaurant owner uses ingredients grown on his own garden.

There is an informal "Old World Atmosphere. Dinner: seven days from 6:30 PM Lunch: Wednesday to Sunday from 12:00 PM


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So always remember!

Si te vas a Otago, tomate un trago!

As they say in Spanish in reference to the great wines of the region

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Freddy Santamaria "The smooth Operator"
Paris, France
November 28, 2005

fredmarcom@aol.com

For EDA Confidential: www.aycinena.com


Copyright (c) 2005, Freddy Santamaria.
All rights reserved.