Western Samoa - It doesn't get more remote or exotic than this...
In reality, very few people! Why? Nobody knows about or thinks about it! In Hawaii, Fiji, Tahiti or New Caledonia you will find nice "resorts" with golf courses and big swimming pools, "all ready to go" as in, big game fishing, diving, sailing & windsurfing, Kkayaking, and surfing, etc., etc. In Western Samoa, however - first: you have only three Hotels of International Standards, second: you can do all the above, but you need to find it by yourself. The first "resort" in Western Samoa will be open in May 2005 with a golf course, but unfortunately the resort will be located next to Faleolo International Airport where planes land and take off at very uncomfortable times - at night from 1:00 AM to 4:00 AM - while at the ferry terminal at Mulifanua Wharf nearby, the firsts ferry's depart at 7:00 AM. So as for it being a "relaxing resort" - that remains to be seen, unless you spend the night dancing away till the morning sun! Western Samoa forms a group of nine islands: Manono, Apolima Nuutele, Nuulua, Namua, Fanuatapu, Nuusafee, Nuulopa and the two larger islands of Upolu and Savaii (which account for approximately 96 percent of the total land area), with only a population of a total of 160,000 residents. Apia (population 35,000) is a bustling township blending old colonial and modern architecture with a main street. Beach Road, alongside Apia Harbor Bay with a "promenade" at the water edge, can be compared to "La Croisette" in Cannes (France) but with a look of sixty years ago. On Beach Road you will find two of the international standard hotels: Aggie Grey's (supposedly the oldest hotel in the South Pacific) With great rooms facing the Apia harbor Bay, two suites, and bungalows on the garden area and prices from US$ 100.00 to. US$ 225.00 for the Suites. Le Tamarina (Western style cuisine by chef Adolf Volkmann) with the special Seafood Buffet Extravaganza (one day a week) one of the best on the South Pacific. And the Pool Side Fale & Grill for Island cuisine (mainly for tourists or hotel residents) AGGIE GREY'S The other international standard Hotel is the Kitano Tusitala Hotel, on the eastern part of Beach Road, but only mentioned here as information - not recommended. (It's reminiscent of the old motels in the 1950's). The hotel does have, however, the must interesting "Gourmet Corner" in Western Samoa:
** The Gourmet Corner ** The SEAVIEW RESTAURANT (on the hotel grounds but independent from the Hotel) has Japanese management and a Samoan cook with Japanese training. The restaurant is set in the front garden of the hotel facing the ocean with two (air conditioned) rooms & a nice balcony terrace, but only with fans (It can be very hot!) But, it's okay for drinks. The food is Samoan with strong Japanese influence. (Prices here are in Tala = Western Samoan Dollar) The Menu changes daily and is only displayed on the Black Board, but from the classics on the menu: For Starters, I recommend: # Gyoza: Ginger pork dumplings with sesame oil & ponzu dip > 15.00 Tala (WS $)
Choose from items on the Black Board (all served with complementary ice cream) Australia, Brenwood Classic Dry (White Chablis) & Red (Claret Style) > 30.00 Sails ** all located on Beach Road. The other international hotel is the SINALEI Reef Resort (Bungalows) on the South Coast of the Island (30 minutes by car from Apia town center, good for scuba diving. Other hotels to mention but on the tourist trade range are: Insel Fehmarn Hotel in Apia If you are on an adventure trip you can try the traditional beach "fale" (traditional version of a small Samoan home) located on sandy beaches just meters from the ocean,mainly on the South Coast at very low prices (5 to 10 US$) but you need to live "a la Robinson Crusoe" Places of interest to visit in UPOLU Island: First, rent a car (remember in Western Samoa driving is on the right hand side of the road) The speed limit Max in towns & villages is 40 Km/h and 55 Km/h on the open road. A temporary Samoan driver's license should be obtained from the Police Department for 10 Tala, on presentation of your own valid driver's license (The car rental company can take care of that.) The most reliable Car Rental Company in Upolu is: FUNWAY Rentals: at the west end of Beach Road - Tel: (685) 22045 - Fax: (685) 25008 For a "double cab," pick-up a 4WD - the price is around 180 Tala per day. For a Rav4 150 Tala and "remember" no credit cards at gas stations - only CASH!
Going back to the places of interest; the best way is going west from Apia Harbor towards: Letogo and Saoluafata (Piula Cave Pool). On the coastal road, follow to Falefa (Falefa Waterfall). After Falavao, take the road-track (4wd recommended) to the left to visit the villages of the Fagaloa Bay to East Point and Uafato & Cape Tagisia. Back on the big road take left on the junction to the west of the island and if you like adventure visit the small village and beach of Tiavea (only 4wd). Follow it to the south-west point of Lalumanu (Crater Walk) From Laluma to Lotofaga is a stretch of coast with plenty of swimming and snorkeling beaches and continue to the South Coast Swimming Beaches from Matatofu to Lefaga (don't miss the Aganoa Black Sand Beach)
If you don't like to drive, no problem. All the places I mentioned can be reached by Public Bus: (no doors, no windows) from Apia Bus Terminal, (next to the food market). All buses are named with their destination, so ask the driver which bus you need to take. It's a very inexpensive transport system (from 1.20 Tala to 3.30 Tala) and an experience for visitors but remember you need time! (The time schedules depend on the humor of the driver and the speed of the wind, as they say) Places of interest to visit in SAVAII Island The Samoa Shipping Corporation operates three ferry services a day (Monday to Saturday). From Mulifanua Wharf in Upolu, to Salelologa Wharf in Savaii, the trip takes one hour at very reasonable cost (7 to 10 Tala) Polynesian Airlines has regular daily flights, which offer great views of the islands Hotels in Savaii are mainly Polynesian style, so don't expect five star international hotel type (be happy you have a place to sleep!) The most important are: Le Lagoto Beach Resort
Exploring Savaii Island: * The Tia seu Ancient Mound: This pyramid is the largest ancient structure in Polynesia at 12 m. tall, in Palauti All information is from: The Samoa Tourism Authority:
First settled more than 3,000 years ago, the islands of Samoa attracted a gradual migration from South East Asia (East Indies, Malay Peninsula or the Philippines). Although many early structures have been lost, historical remains can still be found throughout Samoa. The "Tia Seu Ancient Mound" in Savaii is believed to be the largest prehistoric man-made structure in the Pacific. In 1768, Louis de Bougainville discovered the Samoan Islands and called them the "Navigator Islands". Traders began calling into Samoa for supplies by the late 1,700s. In 1899 Samoa became a German Colony, but after the outbreak of World War I, New Zealand assumed control and Samoa became a mandate territory of New Zealand. After World War II, Samoa continued to be administered by New Zealand, but measures were gradually introduced to prepare for self-government. In 1962 Samoa became the first South Pacific country to gain independence under a constitutional monarchy. A Prime Minister, who is chosen by parliament and appointed by the Head of State, leads the country. There are 49 seats in Parliament with a cabinet of 12 members, and elections are held every five years. Samoan culture is fascinating and the "faa Samoa" (Samoan way of life) is still very much in Existence despite the influences from the rest of the world.Houses or "fales" in Samoa are unique to "faa Samoa." They are usually round or oval in shape with a high thatched roof supported by wooden posts. Generally, they do not have walls to allow a good flow of air, but in the event of rain and for privacy, woven blinds can be erected. The Climate -- Samoa has two seasons: The Wet Season = November to April and The Drier Season = May to October. In general weather remains warm and balmy, with an average temperature in Apia of 29°C. Air New Zealand operates a direct flight from Los Angeles to Apia every Tuesday, leaving Los Angeles at 7:15 PM and arriving in Apia at 2:20 AM on Wednesday Exchange Rate: 1 US$ = around = 3.20 Tala (Western Samoan Dollar
Freddy Santamaria "The Smooth Operator" - Paris, France - September 14, 2004
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